Steak de Burgo: The Sizzling History of Iowa's Signature Dish

I remember working at the West End Diner in West Des Moines, Iowa in my early 20's.  I waited tables, served banquets, hosted and worked in the kitchen there.  One of my favorite dishes there was the Steak de Burgo.  A beef filet, sautéed in garlic butter, it was always my favorite food to prepare and eat.  But, for many outside of Iowa, you may have never heard of a Steak de Burgo.  So here's the scoop.

Steak de Burgo is Iowa’s premier culinary masterpiece, featuring a tender, pan-seared beef tenderloin smothered in a rich, garlicky, herb-infused sauce. It is a beloved staple across Iowa's best supper clubs and steakhouses. The exact origin of Steak de Burgo is one of mid-century Iowa’s greatest culinary debates, split between two iconic mid-century establishments.

The Great Origin Debate - 2 Choices

Johnny & Kay's Restaurant: One popular story attributes the dish to Johnny Compiano, owner of Johnny & Kay's, which opened in 1946. According to family accounts, Compiano may have discovered a similar dish while serving in the Coast Guard in New Orleans during World War II and later introduced his own version in Des Moines. Over time, Johnny & Kay's helped make Steak de Burgo famous throughout the city.

Vic's Tally Ho: Others argue that Vic Tallerico's restaurant, Vic's Tally Ho, served Steak de Burgo even earlier—possibly as far back as the 1930s. Some food historians point to menu records suggesting the dish existed there before World War II, though definitive proof remains elusive.

What’s in a Name? The Mystery of "de Burgo"

Even if the exact inventor remains a mystery, where did the name "de Burgo" come from? Historians point to a few prevailing theories:

• The Spanish Connection: The most widely accepted theory is that the name pays homage to Burgos, a city that served as a Nationalist capital during the Spanish Civil War. Immigrant chefs from Spain, Italy, and France working in Des Moines kitchens may have named the winning dish in honor of the region.
• The Greek-American Influence: Other food historians note that many mid-century Midwestern supper clubs were operated by Greek-American families, who often blended French-style culinary nomenclature with robust, garlic-heavy Mediterranean seasonings.

Butter vs. Cream: The Modern Interpretation

The dish has evolved significantly from its mid-century roots. While the earliest versions relied strictly on a clear pan-sauce of clarified butter or olive oil, a Greek-American variation introducing heavy cream originated at Johnny's Vet's Club in Des Moines.

Today, if you order the dish at classic spots like Christopher's in Beaverdale or the Chicago Speakeasy, you will often be asked to choose between the "original butter style" or the "creamy style". Some modern variations even add a grilled mushroom cap or white wine deglaze to elevate the rich flavors.

No matter which origin story you believe, Steak de Burgo remains a delicious testament to Iowa's rich immigrant history and timeless supper club culture.  Plus, it's always one of my favorites.  If you have never tried, do yourself a favor, and try it today!

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